Landscapes
Landscape photography looks simple because the subject doesn't move, but it's one of the most demanding genres: it takes planning, patience to wait for the light and a composition able to convey the feeling of being there. In the simulator you're focusing far away: find the sharpest aperture and place the horizon.
Three layers to create depth
A flat landscape photo only shows the background. The ones that work usually have three layers: a foreground with interest (rocks, flowers, a railing), a middle ground and the horizon. That progression leads the eye into the image and creates a sense of depth.
That's why many landscape photographers work with a wide-angle and a low camera: the foreground gains prominence and the lines converge toward the background.
Look for something interesting close to you before looking at the horizon.
Sharp from front to back
Every lens has a sweet spot, usually between f/8 and f/11, where it reaches its maximum resolution. Stopping down further, to f/16 or f/22, extends the depth of field but introduces diffraction, an overall loss of sharpness.
To get both the foreground and the horizon sharp, don't focus at infinity: focus roughly a third of the way into the scene. It's a practical approximation of the hyperfocal distance, the focus point that maximizes the sharp zone. If the foreground is very close, the professional technique is focus stacking: several photos focused at different distances that are combined during editing.
Focusing far away, with two different apertures.
Planning the light
Midday light flattens relief. Golden hour sculpts it with long shadows and warm tones, and blue hour brings calm and color. Days with storms, fog or broken clouds usually make for far more interesting images than a plain blue sky.
Landscape photographers plan their outings: they check the weather forecast and the sun's position for each date and time with apps like PhotoPills, and arrive early to find the composition before the light shows up.
The gear that makes a difference
- Tripod: essential in low light, for working at low ISO and for composing calmly.
- Remote release or 2-second timer: stops you from moving the camera when you press the button.
- Polarizing filter: darkens the sky, removes reflections from water and foliage and saturates colors. Its effect is strongest at 90 degrees to the sun.
- ND filter: lengthens the exposure to turn water or clouds into silk.
- Graduated filter (GND): darkens the sky to balance it with darker ground.
Your turn: a landscape close to home
Find a place with a view: a park on a hill, a lookout, a bridge over a river.
- Check what time the sun sets and arrive 45 minutes early with a tripod or a stable surface.
- Find an interesting foreground and place it on one third; the horizon, on another.
- Shoot at f/8 or f/11, focusing a third of the way into the scene, at ISO 100 and with the timer.
- Repeat the same photo at midday on another day and compare the relief, color and depth.